Variation of HPMC gelling agent concentrations in ethanol extract based setting spray of Goji Berry (Lycium barbarum L.) as a Moisturizer

Abstract

The natural properties of the skin, which are constantly exposed to Ultraviolet (UV) rays and free radicals, can lead to various skin problems such as rashes, spots, and dryness. Natural antioxidants can provide moisturizing and brightening effects on the skin. One type of plant that contains natural antioxidants is goji berry (Lycium barbarum L.), which will be formulated into a gel-based setting spray with variations in the concentration of the HPMC gelling agent used as a moisturizer. This study aims to determine the effective concentration variations of the HPMC gelling agent that can be formulated into a gel setting spray preparation. This research used an experimental method consisting of sample collection, plant identification, sample processing, extract preparation, characterization tests, phytochemical screening, and formulation of the gel setting spray with variations of gelling agent concentrations of 0.1%, 0.2%, 0.3%, 0.4%, and 0.5%. The formulated products were then evaluated for quality, and moisturizing effectiveness. The results showed that the gel setting spray preparations were dark brown in color, had a characteristic fragrance, were homogeneous, and had a spreadability of 6.8533 to 5.6400 cm, viscosity ranging from 35,000 to 95,000 cPs, and pH values between 5.6500 and 3.7233. Moisture effectiveness on the skin increased over 4 weeks, ranging from 37.2% to 55.6%. In conclusion, variations in the concentration of HPMC gelling agent can be successfully formulated into a gel setting spray, and goji berry (Lycium barbarum L.) extract can be used as a moisturizer that meets the required physicochemical quality standards for a good gel setting spray preparation.